In most ways it resembles the hundreds of other reefs, islands, rock clusters and cays that collectively are called the Spratly Islands. But Ayungin is different. In the reef’s shallows there sits a forsaken ship, manned by eight Filipino troops whose job is to keep China in check. Ayungin Shoal lies 105 nautical miles from the Philippines. There’s little to commend the spot, apart from its plenti